Bad Axe Restoration Services (4-6 week turnaround)
Though I list prices below, it's always best to contact me first, tell me what you'd like done, and ship the saw to me prior to payment. I'll analyze your saw(s), scope out the work, and send you an estimate for your approval prior to your completing the transaction; this is the most efficient way to establish clear expectations for the work to be done and at what price.
Bad Axe Saw Sharpening & touch-up: $15; $25 for retoothing (reduced rates for Bad Axe saws)
When you're ready to have me sharpen up your Bad Axe --just ship it back to me, and for a nominal fee of $15 (compared to $45 with other saws), I will put a fresh edge on your teeth, and will gladly retension the back if required. If you want the toothline retoothed to a different configuration, we'll only charge $25 (compared to $60 for other saws).
Please do be sure to pack your saw carefully with all sides of the box isolating the saw within, and include your name, shipping address, cell & email.
As always, best to contact me first to let me know your saw is on its way.
Your saw will have appropriate rake, fleam and gullet to facilitate smooth action with minimal set, promoting a thin kerf based on type saw and its purpose. Unless the owner has exact specifications in mind, I will return your rip saw with an 8-degree rake, 5-degree gullet and 5-degrees of fleam (to reduce blowout on the far side of the cut). Crosscut saws will have a 15-degree rake, 5-degree gullet, and a 15-20-degrees fleam, depending on the type of wood you intend to cut. Set applies after sharpening when the cutting action requires it.
Retoothing and Sharpening (with jointing and setting) — $60
I can retooth your saw anywhere from 4 1/2 TPI to 16 TPI, rip or crosscut. Sometimes, a saw will be so badly out of joint, or the toothline so inconsistent, that retoothing will be required regardless. Therefore, this category reflects both retoothing and sharpening (with jointing and setting).
That said, i generally prefer to retooth by hand for existing pitch of the saw in question. Retoothing to a different pitch altogether plays havoc on what remains of the origianal metalsmithing temper and tension of a vintage saw established long ago.
The reason so many saws (particularly back saws) have a chip in the handle or a missing horn is because a previous owner dropped it; this most likely put a kink or bow in the sawplate, because the rib of metal (back, or spine) of the saw no longer exerts even pressure across the length of the blade. Acts of careless sawing also result in bows and kinks in the sawplate. Consequently, many old saws present a taper from toe to heel, because to straighten a bow after dropping the saw (and chipping the handle), a previous owner tapped the spine at the toe deeper into the sawplate—an inelegant correction at best. I can remove the back, judiciously hammer the kink out on my saw anvil, replace the back, equalize blade depth the way Disston (and other manufacturers) originally made the saw, and deliver a restored blade to you that cuts faster with a thinner kerf. Same technique applies for handsaws, obviously without the back. Do understand that hammering a sawplate straight often results in a 90% solution. Once badly kinked, a sawplate will always be weaker in that spot, and overhammering will result in a permanent loss of tension. Sometimes, there is a point where you just have to accept less than perfection. For sawplates with a significant buildup of rust, add another $20.
Have a beautiful old saw but the plate's all used up, or rusted and pitted beyond repair? I can replace your plate to full factory depth under the back with premium Swedish Summer Steel, so your saw can survive into the next century. Backsaws only.
Many a vintage saw has a missing or badly chipped horn, stress cracks adjacent to the saw nuts, or fractured handle. I repair handles with my stock of apple wood, and come reasonably close to matching the original stain of the handle to keep the repair discreet. I will also polish the sawnuts on owner's request. This price reflects all of the work described above and repair for one horn. For saw handles with two damaged horns, add another $25.
* Note: I've been forced to raise the price for this service, given that it takes me two hours on average to sufficiently restore a handle. It's a lot of work! That said, it's a great project I'd heartily advise you to take on yourself. Note the DIY project instructions I've posted on this website regarding how I restore a handle that you can easily do yourself. It's really pretty easy—just a lot grunt work sanding, scrubbing, polishing, shaping & etc—and it's far from rocket science. Just break out your Dremel and go for it.
Oftentimes, a totally rusted out saw with a bowed blade and a missing or chipped horn can be completely rehabilitated. Maybe it belonged to your father, or great-uncle, and you just came into it after years of neglect. Can't part with it, but it requires dressing up. I can rehabilitate your saw. With this service, you get all of the above listed work conducted in one complete package. You'll like what you see and how your saw performs when it's done. Indicated below is the base price, which applies for moderate rust and one chipped horn. For saws with a heavy rust buildup, add $25, and for saws with two broken horns, add $25.